Friday, 8 August 2014

Travel: Japan 2014 Day 1 // Nara // Stay: Ryokan Matsumae // Eat: Edogawa Naramachiten, Tofu-an Kondou

At around 6 a.m. Osaka time, we arrived at Kansai International Airport. We then headed over to Departure area (just boarded the elevator to level 6) to pick up the Pocket Wi-Fi that I have booked for rent during our stay in Japan. I booked it from Global Advanced Communication and opted for the 75mbps device. It is highly recommended as the speed and reception signal have been excellent so far, and this little gem does not have any problem having multiple devices connected to it at the same time (between 1/2heart and I, we bring 2 iphones, 1 ipad, and one laptop).
The pack also contain a return envelope - returning the device once the rental period is over is very easy - just put the device in the provided return envelope and put the pack inside a Japan red PO box (could be found pretty much everywhere).


After setting up our phones ad ipads onto the wi-fi, we headed to the bus terminal to board the bus to Kintetsu-Nara. We will be staying in Nara for the next couple of days.
Limousine Bus costed 2050 Yen one-way per adult.


You can buy your tickets here or at one of the ticket vending machines located outside, just by the bus terminal



Schedule can be checked here. We reached Kintetsu-Nara at around 9.10 a.m. and we already liked the neighborhood with so much fooooooddddd.




Awesome refreshing Green Tea (125 Yen)

Just another looked-too-real food plastic replica to entice customers...

And oh Mister Donut, how I have missed you!

Black Sesame Soft Serve Ice Cream - JPY 300

 If you come to Nara and spot this shop - buy some mochi. It's good! and at JPY 130 per piece:





** -- **
During our stay in Nara, we are staying at Ryokan Matsumae. It is very conveniently located and only took us 10 minutes to reach the ryokan from Kintetsu Nara station.

The place is great, some of the staff speak good english and provided great tips for walk around the area.



The room itself is small but it's clean and functional and japanese style :) We also opted for a room with toilet (you can choose for room without - the ryokan has communal toilet & bath/shower), although we have to use the communal shower/bath to take shower/bath.




The ryokan provides house yukata for guests to wear. This is what it looks like:


The communal bath/shower

small japanese garden just outside the dining area


Ryokan Matsumae price is fairly reasonable too. For a room with toilet (no bath), we are quoted JPY 10800 for 2 people per night. Breakfast would cost JPY 864 per person (per breakfast), and they can also serve dinner for JPY 5400 per person.



** -- **

Exploring our surroundings, we quickly concluded: Nara = deers.


Actually, they wouldn't even blinked an eye at you. That is, until you bought some deer snacks (deer senbei or so the sign said) from some vendors in the vicinity. Then this would happen:

Someone has the magic flute of hamelin

 These guys are ruthless and hungry. Yes, this guy was munching on 1/2heart's shirt.


Moreeeeeee
 

But apart from deer, the cultural and traditional aspect of Nara is equally as charming.
Five-stories pagoda





Ichi-no Torii Gate of Kasuga Taisha Shrine


Yeah, more deers... why not...





** -- **

For lunch, we headed to Edogawa Naramachiten, conveniently located at only 5 minutes walk from Ryokan Matsumae.

You know what I mentioned about getting a mobile/pocket Wi-Fi? It makes it so much easier to find a place: your hotel, eateries, attractions - when you are on the go. All you have to do is put in the intended address in google map or any other map application on your smartphone, then off you go with the direction.

Edogawa Naramachiten
43, Shimomikadocho, Nara-shi, Nara, 630-8365
630-8365 奈良県奈良市下御門町43

This place also has english menu, and for your reference and enjoyment, I put them here :)





The place is stunning!
The front facade



When you entered the building, you will need to leave your shoes/sandals inside the lockers and wear their slippers to walk around the inner building.


And then you shall sit at the sunken tables and enjoy the charming traditional Japanese feel of the place.

The inner courtyard


dining room
 We were served some warm towels to clean our hands and some hot tea. 1/2heart ordered ice oolong tea (JPY 350) to cool him down after getting sun-stroked walking around in 31 degrees day-temperature.


For the actual lunch, he chose Machiya Bentou (JPY 2160), a very healthy meal set (probably too healthy for him :D) consisting some sashimi, various pickles, and grilled chicken.


closer look of the pickles
He also ordered some Assorted Tempura (JPY 850), but unfortunately we both agreed their tempura was disappointing. They arrived kinda soggy and lost their crunch entirely just after a few minutes.


Apparently Edogawa Naramachi-ten is well known for their eel, so of course I had to get one!


Mini Ju Set (JPY 1800) was satisfying and eel lovers will definitely love this place. The eel was perfectly barbecued and retain their smoky flavor. The kabayaki sauce was also generously provided if you ever need to add more sweetness to it.


Love this pepper they provided at the desk. Very herby flavor
For dessert, we ordered Hoji-cha Ice Cream (JPY 350). This one was also nice, especially when outside was so smoldering hot.


Total damage: JPY 5510
**--**
I asked Ryokan Matsumae to make a reservation for me at Tofuan-Kondo for dinner. Well, at first, I wanted to have my first night's dinner at Matsumae, but apparently for a few days, Nara is hosting To-Kae Matsuri - a festival where lots of lantern will be lit up at night around the temples, the park, and ponds vicinity.
As the lantern festival supposedly would start at 7, we were booked for dinner at 5. The place is also quite close to Matsumae - around 7 minutes walk. 

日本, 630-8334 奈良県奈良市西新屋町44.

44 Nishinoshinyacho, Nara, Nara Prefecture 630-8334


16 glorious course of tofu, its derivatives, and any variation of it. JPY 4617 per person. 

By the way, although this place has English Menu (you can't really choose, as they have a set 'degustation' menu), it is highly recommended to have your inn's or hotel's Japanese host/waitress to arrange the reservation for you. By the time we were halfway of our course, this place was full.


The dish that came did not really follow the order of the menu. 
First, we had no 1: unsweetened soy milk that tasted very rich. Although I enjoyed it, I couldn't have drink more than the served quantity (which was only in one small tea cup)


Then came no. 4: Oborodofu. On the menu, they showed which condiments to try the dish with.


These are the four condiments to mix with the dish to enhance their flavors: Yuzu-Kosho (citron and green chilli pepper paste), Black Soy Sauce, Milder dashi Soy Sauce, and Algae Salt.

Then no.5: Yubasasimi. This was also a very refreshing and mild dish. For me, it's best eaten as it was, not with any condiments provided.


Then no 3: the mixed Hors D'oeuvre. I think the chef's skills in processing tofu and soybeans into various dish really shines in this particular dish. The different pieces presented were beautiful bursts of flavor, with different taste and texture.



No. 7: Namafu Dengaku. Soft and not-so-chewy mochi-like cake smeared with miso paste.


No. 9: Sirae. The tofu acted like a sauce here. It had slight but still noticeable sesame flavor that added sweetness to the vegetables.


No 10: Assorted Tempura. These were all tempura from vegetables and sweet potato, and a much much better tempura than our lunch. There was also a bittergourd tempura, stuffed with tofu, which I think was quite nice and unusual.


No. 6: Boiled Tofu in Soy Milk. Well, this was not really served after the tempura, but rather - this dish had been constantly heated/simmered since we arrived. At around this time, the tofu pieces inside were cooked and ready to be eaten. Some yubasasimi also formed on top of the soy milk.


The induction cooker the tofu in soy milk was being boiled on.

No. 12: Tofu Salad with caviar-shaped seaweed from Okinawa.


No. 11: Tofu No Musimono. Steamed tofu cake with some mushroom and (I think) carrots pieces inside. Tasted kinda like chawanmushi with smooth egg-like texture.


No. 13: Gomaoboro. Blended with black sesame, gave the tofu a very different flavor.


No 14: Hirosu no Nimono. Some mixed vegetables with bean curd cake.


No. 15: their rice dish. And thank God it's not big. By around 4 dish ago, I could hardly breath anymore - I was that full. I tasted a bit of the rice (which tasted great actually. Kinda like ochazuke), and gave the rest to 1/2heart.


But of course, always had room for dessert (no. 16). Beautiful 3 small delectable light desserts: green tea tofu pudding, mochi with brown sugar syrup, and pudding with green bean paste.


Overall, if you wanted to try something different, definitely visit Tofuan-Kondo. If you don't like tofu, I guess there is not much to eat here - the whole course is based on it. Allow 2 hours to finish the whole course, enjoy the new flavors you never thought you could taste from tofu. And by the time you finish, you will appreciate this humble soy product.
Or maybe, like me, you wouldn't want to eat or see tofu anymore for a while...

By the way, if you noticed I was wearing yukata in one of the pictures I posted above while eating at Tofuan-Kondo, that was supposed to be for the To-Kae festival we were going to go after dinner. Unfortunately, it rained pretty hard to cancel most of the lantern shows :( They are going to have another go tomorrow night but will likely to cancel again as the weather forecast predicted typhoon-rain.

Travel: Japan 2014: Pre-Flight + HongKong

This year is destination Japan for 1/2heart and I. Well, there were only a few countries I could choose given the dates with my Asiamiles points, and AUD/YEN is actually pretty good, so Japan it is.
However, as with points redemption, we couldn't really be fussy. The only flight available was to fly to Kansai International Airport (other airport destinations in Japan such as Narita or Sapporo were already blacked out) via HongKong with Cathay Pacific, and I was pretty lucky to still able to find flights and redeem the points with only 2 months prior the intended date. It worked out pretty good for 1/2heart and I anyway, as we had been to Tokyo before, and exploring central Japan sounds wonderful with lots of cultural destinations we planned for.
So with that, let's start another journey with me as I update this blog daily as I move along through my days :)


Cathay Pacific flight to HongKong was delayed by over an hour, but the captain must have zoomed so fast to make for lost time, our arrival in HongKong International airport was only delayed by 1/2 hour.

in-flight economy class menu. Yep, economy only this time :P 


With 6 hours layover until our flight to KIX airport, we headed out to MongKok to look for some grub. Tired (flight was super bumpy. I was a bit shocked myself I could hold out pretty well - usually I would probably already puked my guts out) and not in the mood looking around, we settled for this place:


Well the food were pretty cheap, I guess that's part of the reason why the place was packed. 'Tossed' noodles dish costed HK$40-HK$43. But taste-wise? Let's just say when the food came, I thought they were indomie. Kinda tasted like one, too. Ah well... .
I also ordered Lemon Tea with Agar (HK$20), which turned out to be more like lemon water with coconut jelly. Jasmine Green Tea (HK$16) was OK, and my tossed noodle dish came with smoked duck and sausage (HK$43). 1/2heart ordered something based on the waitress' recommendation and I wasn't paying attention to the name of the dish - it came with beef and some sort of white sauce you probably would normally find in pasta.


Portion was quite generous, so it definitely filled our hungry stomachs. I was still working on my noodles when two petite girls came inside the restaurant and bumped our drinks and spilled all the contents when they tried to squeeze through the gap between the tables to sit. And guess who was the lucky girl that got wet? Let's just say I walked around looking like I have pissed my pants.


Then in a bid to dry my pants by walking around more - we headed to the Goldfish Market to see some puppies. Gosh - they had my favourite breeds all in one shop! Mini dachshunds, beagle, shiba inu, schnauzer, and scottish folds for cats! Finished oogling over the puppies and kitties (and feeling somewhat sad to leave them :( ), we headed to Tsim Tsa Shui and stayed by the harbour before headed back to the airport to catch our flight to Kansai.



Tuesday, 22 July 2014

NomNom: Tsukemen.... Tsukemen..., Sydney

Who wouldn't be familiar with Ramen? : Japanese noodle soup dish, usually served with Chinese style noodle, arguably most popular with thick chashu pork pieces for the carnivores (although there are a lot of options for toppings - ranges only limited by the chef/ramen joint), to plain seaweed or green onions for the more purists.

The soup stock can generally be categorized into four type (trust me, I looked up Wikipedia :P): Shio (salt based), Tonkotsu (pork based), Shoyu (soy sauce based), and Miso. With these four, and sometimes combination between them, it caters to a lot of different tastebuds.

Lately I have been on the hunt for good ramen around Sydney - but not just your usual Ramen noodle in soup: I seek for the perfect Tsukemen. 
Tsukemen is a type of Ramen where dry noodle is served with usually thicker (more condensed and intensely flavoured) soup stock to be used for dipping. And from my adventure, apparently it's very hard to get this right. Some joints have the soup stock too thinly flavoured, some too strong, and some are just... well ... not worth mentioning.

There are two places that I have visited but do not put on a review here. One is because it's very disappointing I don't think it's worth a review, the other is pretty decent, but I didn't bring my camera.

One that disappointed me: Ryo's Noodles (125 Falcon St, Crows Nest). Their tsukemen (A$15) is served with cold soup. While the serving was very generous (lots and lots of noodle, served with good chashu, not very good egg - it was very hard-boiled, not the half-cooked type I am accustomed to, bamboo shoots, and nori sheets), the soy based soup was quite thin and hardly tasted of anything at all. 
Gone are the days where I got so excited making a trip to the northern part of Sydney for good ramen. Maybe it's because of the constant queue and demand, maybe it's something else - their ramen (even the much loved Chijire Tonkotsu Spicy Ramen) do not appeal to me anymore. 

The other place that I tried but did not take pictures of is Ramen Ikkyu (Shop F1A, 401 Sussex St. Food Court Chinatown): their tsukemen (A$14) is served with soy based soup as well, but I found this a much better version than Ryo's. Adequately flavoured as much intense as soy based soup could go. 1/2heart found it too salty though, and somewhat I agree. However, this soup is not meant to be drank straight up. It's meant to be used as dipping 'sauce' for the dry noodles.

And for the rests, these are what I have tried. If you know a good place in Sydney selling tsukemen that I have not reviewed, let me know ;)

MENYA NOODLE BAR (Shop TG8, 8 Quay St, Haymarket)

Menya

Menya (5 of 6)

Karami Miso Tsukemen - At $10.90, the most economical tsukemen with decent flavor. The soup is chicken and miso based, so it is somewhat light but still have adequate flavor to dip your noodles into.
Perfect ni-tamago (egg) with half-runny egg yolk. You can also choose between thin or thick noodles.

Menya (1 of 6)

Menya (2 of 6)

Whilst I'm on tsukemen quest, 1/2heart loves ramen too - specifically the ones in black garlic oil. So It's worth mentioning that Menya also does good Black Garlic Oil Ramen. I could totally taste the smokiness and smell the lovely aroma.

Menya (3 of 6)

**---**

RAMEN-KAN (90 Hay St, Haymarket)

RamenKan (1 of 3)

They have two versions of tsukemen (both A$10.50), and I chose the Spicy Tsukemen. The soup is pork based and the noodles came with generous pork pieces (more generous than Menya's, though not as tender). Good consistency of noodles as well, however the soup flavor was a bit flat for me. Since it's pork based, I expected this to have more depth to it.

RamenKan (2 of 3)

RamenKan (3 of 3)


**---**

ICHIBAN BOSHI (Level 2, The Galleries, 500 George St, Sydney)
Located just across Kinokuniya, this place is always packed, so had quite an expectation for a good tsukemen, but unfortunately I couldn't satisfy my tastebuds at this place

IchibanBoshi (1 of 4)

When I was there, they did not have the Tan-Tan Tsukemen (boo), so I ordered the normal Tsukemen instead (A$13). BUT! The dish did not come with ni-tamago (double boo!), so had to order that as a side.
You can choose to have spinach noodle instead of the normal (yellow) noodle, though - so I did just that.

IchibanBoshi (3 of 4)

Good Noodles, OK soup (not enough packed with flavor IMO), not enough chashu (only one thin sliver of pork)!

IchibanBoshi (4 of 4)


**---**

IPPUDO (Shop 5021, Level 5 Westfield Shopping Centre, 188 Pitt St, Sydney)

This is another always-packed place. Their ramen are always good and consistent in quality and taste. If you came here during lunch or dinner hours .... good luck. Sometimes the line outside could make my stomach cry.

Ippudo (2 of 7)

Price wise, it is the most expensive Tsukemen I have ever tried (A$17). Good noodle, great thick chashu, and the flavor is intense. Too intense, infact, for my taste. A pity for me, because the myriad of flavour combination in the soup - pork and bonito based broth - can actually be really good. In fact it would be perfect if they notched it down a tad.
Their tsukemen is limited-time/seasonal only though, so you may not find it the next time you dine there.

Ippudo (1 of 7)

Ippudo (4 of 7)

Ippudo (6 of 7)

1/2heart would like to note that Ippudo's version of black garlic oil ramen is the best. It is expensive though (A$17 without egg, A$19 with one).

Ippudo (3 of 7)

Ippudo makes perfect ni-tamago, look at this beautiful curve leaking with golden yolk goodness.

Ippudo (7 of 7)

**---**

RAMEN ZUNDO (644 George St - World Tower, Sydney)
Saving the best for last - my favourite tsukemen joint (and any type of ramen in general).

RamenZundo (3 of 7)

RamenZundo (2 of 7)

RamenZundo (1 of 7)

They have three type of tsukemen - all pork based. You may try the original version, but ever since Zundo started serving the Gyokai Tsukemen (A$12.90), this is my favorite tsukemen, Ever. By Far.

With Gyokai version, the soup is infused with dried fish (4 types apparently, but hey who would have counted) and the thickness and flavor of the soup is just right to properly infuse the chewy thick noodles. The chashu pork are also diced into smaller pieces and incorporated in the soup. It just added that much extra flavor when they hit your tongue. Just beautiful. If Ippudo's version is too intense, this one is just perfect.
You can also thin down the dipping soup a bit by asking the waitress for extra soup.

The tsukemen does not come with ni-tamago though... :( So had to order on the side to make this a truly perfect meal for me.

RamenZundo (5 of 7)

RamenZundo (6 of 7)

1/2heart would also like to add - although he thinks Ippudo's version is (slightly) more superior, he thinks Zundo's Black Garlic Oil Ramen (Rich Zundo Black or Light Zundo Black. Go Rich, I'd say) is great value for money and actually very tasty. In fact, in a normal course of day, he'd choose Zundo's over Ippudo's.

**---**

And thus hereby my tsukemen quest (ongoing) for now. I wonder if I will taste a better tsukemen than the one I have had at Zundo in Sydney or elsewhere... . 

Saturday, 28 June 2014

NomNom: Sushi of Masuya, Sydney

Part of the Masuya International restaurant group, Sushi of Masuya open their door from 16 June 2014. 1/2heart and I are fans of Masuya (12-14 O'Connell st, close to Wynyard station) and Miso (World Square), and we were excited to see another establishment from the group, closer to Haymarket. We knew that dining at one of Masuya's restaurants wouldn't be cheap, but we knew we would be getting quality - the most important aspect of Japanese food, in my opinion.

We were right.

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At around 12 p.m., the place was almost deserted. Looking at their lunch menu, I could not divert my eyes from their Eel (Unagi) and Anago Chirashi Sushi Set ($23.50).

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I love eel, and Sushi of Masuya did not disappoint. Fluffy japanese short grain rice covered with generous slices of unagi and anago, slathered with sweet teriyaki-like sauce. The set comes with Agedashi Tofu and Miso Soup, as well as a small portion of radish/daikon pickles.

For the uninformed, Anago is salt-water eel. The more common one found in Japanese restaurants is the thicker and the more chewy Unagi, which is fresh-water eel. Anago is considerably thinner, usually smaller, and less oily than unagi.

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My preference? They are both good - I enjoyed the unagi as I could not find or taste any small bones usually found in cheaper quality ones. The anago has cleaner taste though.

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Look at those beautiful gems

1/2 heart opted for Sashimi Set ($18.50), also inclusive of Agedashi Tofu and Miso Soup.

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The sashimis were, well, fresh. Very clean tasting, crunchy pieces of fish. And you can't really go beyond that.

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So impressed we were with our lunch session, that we decided to come back for dinner and tried their a-la carte menu :D
While lunch was a quiet affair, Sushi of Masuya was packed with patrons during dinner.

We ordered Beans Goma-Ae ($5.80) for appetizer. Crunchy beans tasty sesame dressing. I wanted to also order their Salmon Fin Kara-Age, however unfortunately they did not have that.

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Chicken Katsu ($16.80) was coated in generous panko crumbs, very crunchy and deceptively light tasting despite them being deep fried. It did not come with any rice though, so we had to order a bowl of rice ($3).

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The star dish of the night would definitely be Wagyu Steak in Miso Sauce ($38.80). Sirloin piece of wagyu beef with marbling score of 7 (pretty good), it is freaking expensive. But the moment I bit into the meat, slathered with that tasty miso sauce - all was forgotten. There were only me and the juicy tender beef (no dice ever of me being a vegetarian there -_-). When 1/2heart let out an appreciative guttural moan after tasting his first piece of the steak, I knew he felt the same.

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447 Pitt St. (cnr Pitt & Campbell St), Sydney, 2000
ph: 02 9280 0377